Edward Enninful's journey is a captivating tale of defying expectations and embracing diversity. But here's where it gets personal... 'Britain feels less tolerant now than in the vibrant 90s'. Enninful, a fashion icon and editor, reflects on his remarkable rise, from being scouted on the London tube in 1988 to becoming a pivotal figure in the industry.
The 90s were a golden era for Enninful, marked by his immersion in London's creative scene. He reminisces about the era's raw energy and cross-disciplinary collaborations with iconic figures like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. But beneath the nostalgia, he identifies a disturbing shift: a regression in tolerance, not just in Britain but globally. The rise of the far right, the backlash against progressive ideals, and the resurgence of Eurocentric beauty standards paint a concerning picture.
Enninful's response? A celebration of diversity. His inaugural issue as editor of British Vogue showcased a diverse range of influential figures, from Sadiq Khan to Zadie Smith. He believes in using one's voice to challenge societal norms and promote inclusivity. This philosophy extends to his personal life, where he finds hope in the younger generation's heightened awareness of unconscious bias.
Enninful's story is one of resilience and breaking barriers. As a black, gay, disabled man of color, he has faced adversity, including police stops and struggles with depression and alcoholism. Yet, he refuses to be defined by these challenges. His boldness and inclusivity are evident in his groundbreaking covers featuring models of color, plus-sized women, and individuals with Down's syndrome, among others. This approach not only challenges stereotypes but also boosts sales, proving that diversity is good for business.
Enninful's recent ventures, such as his creative company EE72 and its magazine 72, reflect his desire to disrupt the status quo. His upbringing in Ghana, where everyone was black and successful, contrasted sharply with his minority status in England. This duality fuels his determination to question conventions and empower marginalized voices.
His calm demeanor belies a fierce determination to succeed. Despite health issues and partial sight loss, Enninful remains fearless. He is curating a seminal 90s exhibition at Tate Britain, shedding light on overlooked artists of the era. This project, born from his friendship with Tate director Maria Balshaw, is a testament to his belief in the power of collaboration.
Enninful's 72 magazine stands out for its innovative approach to advertising, favoring collaborations over traditional ads. This model, he suggests, could revolutionize cash-strapped museums and galleries, echoing his own transformative experience at the National Portrait Gallery. His influence extends to high-profile events like the British Museum's inaugural ball, raising millions.
Today, Enninful is a creative powerhouse, commanding a global network of influential friends and colleagues. His company's expansion into podcasts and film reflects his entrepreneurial spirit. Enninful's journey inspires us to pursue our passions, challenge stereotypes, and embrace diversity. It begs the question: In an increasingly divided world, can we reclaim the tolerance and inclusivity of the 90s?
